This Underrated Thai Island Offers Equal Parts Hedonism & Health

For a tropical vacation east of the Atlantic, the Thai islands have long held a certain allure. Visions of long tail boat rides and elephant sanctuaries loom large. And in the Gulf of Thailand, a series of three islands have made names for themselves. 

Koh Samui, the largest of the trio, is home to the big name hotels, busy roads, and the only airport in the region. Further north, the smallest island, Koh Tao, offers unmatched diving conditions but limited accommodations. Between the two lies the true Goldilocks of Thai islands: Koh Phangan. 

With all the white sand beaches and limestone archipelagoes that made Phuket and the Phi Phi islands famous, Koh Phangan suffers far fewer crowds. Restaurants still cater to Westerners, but you won't find any all-inclusive resorts here. It's easier to navigate than Koh Samui but only a 30-minute boat ride away, a fraction of the distance to Koh Tao. 

And while Koh Phangan's full moon parties draw gap year backpackers to its southern shores, its northern coast has become a destination for a different kind of traveler. The chaos of Haad Rin Beach earned the island a spot on the infamous banana pancake backpacking trail. But go northwest and you'll practically trip over yoga studios and vegan bakeries lining the corner of the island where healers of all kinds have set up shop.

Do yoga on the beach, hike up to a lookout point for a glimpse of the neighboring islands, or unwind with a sound bath or Ayurvedic massage—Koh Phangan's natural beauty and community of wellness enthusiasts will leave you restored and ready to plan your return.

While the south coast of Koh Phangan offers some of the island's most spectacular beaches, the area around Haad Rin Beach, home of the monthly full moon party, is less than serene. This hotel offers a stunning oasis. The beachfront property boasts two pools, a spa, and a restaurant, all with water views. Bungalows are tucked among trees for extra privacy and quiet.

It's family-friendly, but when I stayed there in February of 2022, the two pools were never visited by more than a few other guests and I often had the beach to myself. The only hint of the chaos occurring down the street is the note left in each room on the night of the full moon party asking guests not to stain their sheets with neon body paint. If you're the type of traveler who likes to spend the day at their hotel, this is a worthy contender. 

Being one of Thailand's less commercial islands (after all, it's the small sister island of what is, at most, Thailand's third most popular chain of islands), Koh Phangan doesn't have any big-name hotels. But when Anantara Rasanada opened in 2011, it got its first luxury one. Tucked away on the island's northwest coast, where the best sunrises are found, Anantara features 64 suites and villas, each with a private pool. Its wide stretch of white sand beach offers views of the rocky jungle cliffs beyond, which can be ogled from a beachfront infinity pool or one of several on-site restaurants. In addition to traditional spa offerings, like indoor and outdoor massages, Anantara offers yoga and breathwork classes, plus a yoga deck overlooking the water for those who prefer to flow on their own. 

Another beachfront property with two pools, Loyfa is tucked into a quiet corner of Koh Phangan's northwest coast. Rooms range from basic (think a private room in a hostel, with a bed and not much else) to luxurious, including beachfront cottages with private plunge pools. There's a gym and a space for yoga. When I stayed there in 2022, the restaurant and massage area were still closed (the property had only recently reopened after a 2.5-year closure due to COVID), but recent reviews indicate they're up and running again. It's a quick walk to a main street with dozens of restaurants and shops. While the beach it's located on isn't Koh Phangan's best, the two pools and spectacular sunsets make up for it. 

If you're going to take one day trip from Koh Phangan, let it be this. Koh Nang Yuan refers to a series of three tiny islands (islets, technically) connected by narrow sandbars just off the coast of Koh Tao. Climb up a series of shaded stairs built into the middle island and you'll be rewarded with one of the most breathtaking views in Thailand (of which there are no shortage).

A bright white sandbar cuts the Gatorade-colored water in two and then abruptly curves left, carving out two S-shaped tide pools at the foot of the neighboring islet, where rock walls jut out of the sea. It's a popular site for diving, with underwater rock formations that form cavelike structures and water so clear that watching the fish from the surface feels like snorkeling. If you prefer lying on the beach, this is one of the best places to do it.

The shores here are pristine—the ferry crew doesn't allow passengers to disembark with any plastic, and visitors are prohibited from laying towels on the beach in an effort to preserve the quickly eroding sand, which sticks to towels and gets carried away. Kayaks are for rent at the island's one hotel, Nangyuan Island Dive Resort. Crash there if you can't tear yourself away from the shores for the last ferry back to Koh Tao.

This beachfront locale is a well-being destination. Take a yoga class or join a sound bath, grab a bite at the vegan cafe, brave an ice bath, warm up in the herbal steam room, or book a reiki, acupuncture, or massage treatment. The weekly schedule features everything from shamanic sound healing to transcendental meditation. There's always something happening at Orion—locals stop by for Kirtan night and kids' yoga and linger in the cafe, and visitors come from all over for their yoga teacher training and detox programs. 

Website: https://www.orionhealing.com/

If you're in the northwest of Koh Phangan, try this little alcove, which is less prone to low tides than some of the other spots in the area. The beach is small, which prevents huge crowds from forming, and there are restaurants lining the shore to retreat to when you've had enough sun. 

For Americans, the idea of a national park might conjure images of sunbaked canyons and mountainous vistas. But in this part of Thailand, it means crystalline seas and untouched islands. Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park is an archipelago of 42 islands in the Gulf of Thailand, some 20 miles east of Koh Phangan. Boat tours ferry visitors between islands for snorkeling, kayaking, and hiking around stalagmite caves, emerald lakes, limestone cliffs, and lookout points offering views that seem fit only for a screen saver.

A highlight is the viewpoint located at the apex of the main island, Ko Wua Ta Lap. After a steep 30-minute climb (luckily there are stairs), visitors are rewarded with views of the dozens of islands scattered throughout the cerulean waters below. In my experience, Ang Thong was far less crowded and more awe-inspiring than the longtail boat tours that are the hallmark of Thai tourism. 

At Ang Thong, like on tours of the famous Phi Phi islands, you can watch wild monkeys play and ogle scenes right out of the Leonardo DiCaprio movie The Beach, the difference being that you can take in the views without a hundred other tourists waiting in line behind you.

This all-purpose community space features a boutique with internationally sourced artisan goods (I walked away with a vintage linen kimono from Japan and a hand-woven bag from Ethiopia), live music, food vendors, and an under-the-radar, reservations-only restaurant. Diners are seated all at once around a communal table for home-cooked-style food with local ingredients. A recent menu included Gaeng Som (a sour and spicy fish curry) local mackerel with Naam Prik (a Thai chile sauce) and Sago (a starchy pudding) with local coconut milk for dessert. Get in touch via WhatsApp.

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/dearphangan/

WhatsApp: +66 89 114 3302

A great way to get to know a place is through its street food, and on Koh Phangan, there's no better place to do so than the Pantip night market on the Thong Sala pier, where vendors gather on Saturday nights. Sample spicy papaya salad and made-to-order pad thai, crispy khao yum (rice salad), and sweet coconut sticky rice, all for just a few dollars each.

Located at the top of a hill on Koh Phangan's northwest coast, the views alone offered by this Australian cafe make it a must-see—great food is just the cherry on top. They offer quality coffee along with standard healthy-ish Western breakfast fare like avocado toast and eggs benedict, plus smoothies and açai bowls. Try your best to snag a balcony table, all the better for gawking at the turquoise shoreline below.

For a sunset drink, there's no better view. Perched atop a hill, Amsterdam offers panoramic views of the horizon and the islands beyond. It's casual—tables are low to the ground with cushions for sitting. Yelp reviews suggest there was a pool at some point, but it wasn't open when I visited in the spring of 2022. Food and drink offerings here are simple, the main draw is the view. (Editor's note: Motorbikes are a common form of transportation on Koh Phangan, but don't attempt to drive one up here. Your best bet is to have a cab drive you as far as they're willing and then walk the rest.) 

This all-day Indonesian cafe is there whenever you need it—for a hot breakfast, a place to work through lunch with strong Wi-Fi, or a cozy dinner with live music. People work on laptops from the air-conditioned dining room during the day and take cocktails on the porch after dark. The menu features Indonesian classics like mie goreng (a kind of fried noodle), sayur lodeh (coconut milk stew), and pepes ikan (fish grilled in banana leaves) along with Western breakfast options, coffee, and a kids' menu.

For breakfast or an afternoon coffee, Mimis is unbeatable They serve big American-sized lattes with fresh coconut milk and everything from eggs to pancakes and hot-out-of-the-oven homemade granola. It's busy on weekends, but there's plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. 

For a more upscale dinner, try this wine bar and French bistro. It's on the beach, albeit one of the island's frequently low-tide, less-than-spectacular ones. But the ambience makes up for it with moody lights and live music on Fridays and Sundays. There are charcuterie boards for sharing, an extensive wine list, and upscale entrees with both French and Thai origins, from roast duck to lemongrass prawns. 

With friendly locals, an abundance of natural beauty, and a burgeoning well-being scene to boot, Koh Phangan is the perfect place to get some r&r. Whether you're hiking up to a viewpoint or enjoying the slower pace of life from the pristine shore, time here is always well spent.